Grow your own fruit from a cutting

 Did you know that you can grow some types of fruit trees, bushes and vines from just a cutting? Yes, you could grow most things from a seed but many plants that are hybrids may not "grow true" from a seed. This means that it may not produce fruit that is the same as the plant you got the seed from because of mixed genetics. Growing from a cutting is a much more reliable way because you are sure to get a plant that is exactly the same as the parent plant. Also, the plant will mature and produce fruit faster than from a seed. 

For example, an avocado plant grown from a pit/seed will grow well but you will have to wait about 10 years before it produces fruit, or not. Because of the mixed genetics the fruit can be like any of its ancestors or may not fruit at all. A Haas Avocado seed is very unlikely to produce another Haas avocado-like fruit. A cutting may start producing fruit the same year or up to a few years after it roots. 

Grafting is another way to make a new plant but you need an existing similar plant to graft on to. 

When I first joined the California Rare Fruit Growers club I didn't have many fruit trees I could use so I learned which could be started from cuttings and grow on their own roots successfully here. I have dozens of producing fruit trees, bushes, berries, and grapes that I grew myself this way. I highly recommend this club if you are at all interested in growing fruit. Wonderful group of people that are happy to help you. Each different branch has a "Scion Exchange" meeting in January and February where members bring cuttings (scions) from their plants to give to other people (for free). One of the big advantages to this is the hundreds of unusual, different, and rare plants offered. Did you know that there are hundreds of different varieties of figs? No? Neither did I! Each with a different flavor, shape, texture, color, ripening time. Some have 2 crops of fruit in a year. Dozens of varieties of mulberries, grapes, pomegranates, berries. 

Here in Southern California the things I know you can grow from a cutting are: figs, pomegranates, mulberries, elderberries, guavas, Surinam Cherries, Acerola/Barbados Cherries, goji berries, tomatoes, Pepino Dulce, grapes, bramble berries (black and raspberries), and passionfruit. I'm sure I have missed a few. Let me know in the comments of others you know of.

As with most things in life there are many different ways to root a cutting, from as simple as sticking it in some dirt to a multi-step, careful procedure. Your choice. Do what you can, if it doesn't work, maybe try a different way next time.

Prime season for rooting is considered to be early in the year, just before or as the plant is coming out of winter dormancy. If you missed that window of time, give it a try anyway. You have nothing to lose but a cutting. The worst time to try to root a cutting is just before it is going dormant. With some plants, such as figs and mulberries, there are at least a few varieties that are easier to root than others. For example, with Mulberries, red, white and their hybrids tend to be easy to root while Pakistani and Persian types are much more difficult, even with a greenhouse. 

Choosing the cutting:

With most cuttings the new roots will come from where the leaf was growing, known as the "leaf node".  If there are no leaves you can usually still see a bump or irregular area where the leaf was. You need at least 2 or more leaf nodes per cutting. The length between the leaf nodes can vary greatly so check carefully. Many people suggest that a shorter cutting is easier to root than a longer one. 

The goal is to get at least one leaf node in the soil (to form roots) and one above the soil level (for new growth). Of course, since this is nature we are dealing with, there are exceptions!  In my experience, Elderberries form roots from anywhere along the stem and figs can form roots from the bottom of the cutting as well as from the leaf node. Whether you choose new/green growth or older growth is debatable and can vary by species but its not crucial with most of these plants listed. 

Don't let the cutting dry out! As soon as possible put it into a plastic bag or some water. If you can't plant it right away then a recommended way to store it it is in a zip lock bag with a moist (not dripping wet) paper towel in the crisper of your refrigerator. The moisture in the towel and the lower temperature will help it stay fresh and dormant.

Prepping the cutting:

Make sure you have at least 2 leaf nodes. If the cutting is dormant, take off any remaining leaves, flowers, fruits, etc so you have a bare stick. If it has new growth you can leave 1-3 leaves at the tip but remove any flowers or new fruit forming (you want its energy to go to making roots, not fruit). 

If you suspect it has a bacterial, fungal or pest problem it is good to wash it well or even soak it in a diluted soap, vinegar or insecticide solution (Neem Oil is great for this) for a few minutes. I like to cut the bottom at a sharp angle to ensure it doesn't sit flat on the bottom of the container.

Rooting the cutting:

To get one of these cuttings to root is usually fairly easy. You will need a loose growing media (not muddy), some type of pot or container, water, shade and patience. You can find lots of videos and articles about rooting cuttings and many slightly different methods. Basically you need a consistently moist, but not soggy, rooting media. This can be sand, perlite, cactus mix or something similar. You need the cutting to stay moist long enough to form roots. If it dries out too much, it will probably die. 

It has been debated for decades as to whether using rooting powder, cinnamon, honey, worm castings, etc makes a difference. Rotting is what you are trying to prevent so any of these may help. Some recommend using a sterile medium in a sealed, sterile environment. 

As with most things in life, it can be simple or as complicated as you choose to make it. I have one friend that just sticks cuttings in some dirt in a pot outside and hopes for the best. She has over a dozen producing fruit trees from cuttings. If you are trying to produce lots of plants you may want to choose a more controlled way. 

I like to keep things simple so the method i use is to fill a container (pot, tub, cup, etc) with about 2-4 inches of the pre-wetted, growing medium. I prefer pots with drainage holes in the bottom. I usually use a lot of perlite with a little potting soil mixed in. I poke the cutting almost all the way to the bottom, making sure at least one leaf node is below the surface. Often i am using at least a one gallon pot with multiple cuttings. 

ADD A LABEL. I know you think you will remember but most bare sticks look similar and you don't want to have something special that you can't identify later. Be sure that this label will last thru sun, water and time. Many people choose plastic and you can make your own from mini-blinds, cut to whatever length you like. The most effective thing to write the name with is a pencil or an oil pencil/China pencil. Trust me, I have used every "permanent" marker I could find and these last longer. 

Water it a little more and put it in a warm, shady place. Check on it often and rewet as needed to keep it moist but not soggy. You are trying to ensure that it will make roots before it dies, dries out or rots. 

Some take longer to form roots that others but expect a month or more. Warmer, more humid, shady places can speed this up. Some like to put their cutting and sometimes pots into a big plastic tub or cooler with a lid. This increases humidity so the cutting doesn't dry out but also increases the chance of mold/rot so it may be better to use sterile media. Some like to lay the cutting on its side, part or fully buried, which sometimes produces multiple plants. The choices are endless so it is your choice.

How to know when your cutting has rooted enough to transplant:

This will depend somewhat on how you planted it. If in a see thru container then it is easy to see the roots. If in a small container with drainage holes then you can see the roots poking out the bottom. If you're impatient (aren't we all?) a gentle tug will either pull it right out or have some resistance if there are roots. However, this may tear off the baby roots and can kill what could have been a successful cutting. I speak from experience! Remember I said you need patience?

Once you think it has some good roots you can gently turn the pot upside down to remove the plant, shake most of the loose media from it and gently transplant it into a larger pot with good soil or in the ground. 

Voila! You now have a fruit producing new plant!

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